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Howells, William Dean, 1837-1920

"Familiar Spanish Travels"

However, there were admirable ham sandwiches, not of goat's
flesh, at the other end of the room, and with these one could console
oneself. There was also a commendable pancake whose honored name I never
knew, but whose acquaintance I should be sorry not to have made; and all
about Bobadilla there was an agreeable bustle, which we enjoyed the more
when we had made sure that we had changed into the right train for
Granada and found in our compartment the charming young Swedish couple
who had come with us from Seville.
Thoroughly refreshed by the tea with hot goat's milk in it, by the
genuine ham sandwiches and the pancakes, my note-book takes up the tale
once more. It dwells upon the rich look of the land and the comfort of
the farms contrasting with the wild irregularity of the mountain ranges
which now began to serrate the horizon; and I have no doubt that if I
had then read that most charming of all Washington Irving's Spanish
studies, the story, namely, of his journey over quite the same way we
had come seventy-five years later, my note-book would abound in lively
comment on the changed aspect of the whole landscape. Even as it is, I
find it exclamatory over the wonder of the mountain coloring which it
professes to have found green, brown, red, gray, and blue, but whether
all at once or not it does not say.


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