I became so engrossed in the spectacle, so essentially a part of the
drama, that I did not make due account of some particulars of the
subterranean six stories of El Greco's house. There must have been other
things worth seeing in Toledo, thousands of others, and some others we
saw, but most we missed, and many I do not remember. It was now coming
the hour to leave Toledo, and we drove back to our enchanted castle for
our bill, and for the omnibus to the station. I thought for some time
that there was no charge for the fire, or even the smoke we had the
night before, but my eyes were holden from the item which I found later,
by seeing myself addressed as Milor. I had never been addressed as a
lord in any bill before, but I reflected that in the proud old
metropolis of the Goths I could not be saluted as less, and I gladly
paid the bill, which observed a golden mean between cheapness and
dearness, and we parted good friends with our host, and better with our
guide, who at the last brought out an English book, given him by an
English friend, about the English cathedrals. He was fine, and I could
not wish any future traveler kinder fortune than to have his guidance in
Toledo.
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