I do not know just why the Puerta
del Sol seems so much ampler and gayer than the Calle de Alcala; it is
not really wider, but it seems more to concentrate the coming and going,
and with its high-hoteled opposition of corners is of a supreme
spectacularity. Besides, the name is so fine: what better could any city
place ask than to be called Gate of the Sun? Perpetual trams wheeze and
whistle through it; large shops face upon it; the sidewalks are thronged
with passers, and the many little streets debouching on it pour their
streams of traffic and travel into it on the right and left. It is
mainly fed by the avenues leaving the royal palace on the west, and its
eddying tide empties through the Calle de Alcala into the groves and
gardens of the Prado whence it spreads over all the drives and parks
east and north and south.
For a capital purposed and planned Madrid is very well indeed. It has
not the symmetry which forethought gave the topography of Washington, or
the beauty which afterthought has given Paris. But it makes you think a
little of Washington, and a great deal of Paris, though a great deal
more yet of Rome. It is Renaissance so far as architecture goes, and it
is very modern Latin; so that it is of the older and the newer Rome that
it makes you think.
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